14/20

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024

14/20

Armorica

French$$$

An extravagant crowd-pleaser where every meal has a sense of occasion.

This is a dining room with a sense of occasion, with low lighting, soft drapery and the gold-tinged opulence of a grande French brasserie. Couples along the burgundy banquette whisper over glasses of bourgogne. A family celebrates over candlelit cake. Waiters breeze by with eye-catching seafood towers.

That’s not to say Armorica can’t do comfort – take the lush champignon camembert crepe, for example – but extravagance is very much de rigueur, backed up by bistro classics such as Jack’s Creek flat-iron steak with classic bearnaise, or a blushing duck breast cooked on the Josper grill, sauced with glistening plum jus.

There are some attempts to bring other cuisines into the fold – flame-licked king prawns in buttery XO-escargot sauce, say, served alongside steamed bread – but this is a restaurant at its best when it stays in its lane. Just look at the chocolate bar dessert: the snap of custom-embossed tempered chocolate a perfect way to end a sophisticated soiree.

Good to know: Book on a Monday night for bottomless steak frites.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: May 2026

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Source: The Age

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
Added to Allnira