More than the hunt: How falconry season brings Emiratis together in Abu Dhabi

As the afternoon heat fades over the dunes outside Remah, in Abu Dhabi's Al Ain Region, a group of Emirati falconers gather in a majlis to share Arabic coffee, fruit and stories. There is no rush, but as prayers finish and the sun begins to sink, attention turns to the hunt.

The Environment Agency – Abu Dhabi announced October 20 as the start of the emirate's falconry season, which will run until January 31.

For Ammar bin Humaid Al Marri, a falconer who runs the uaefalcons Instagram account, the cooler months mean spending every day in the desert. Today, he has brought Shaman, one of his prized birds, which he has fitted with a GPS tracker attached to a tail mount on its feathers.

“Every bird has a specific prey it can hunt, so you can't just release any bird,” he says. “For instance, this one we release after stone-curlews [kerwan], pigeons or birds of a similar size.” Other falcons hunt the houbara bustard or the Arabian or desert hare.

Joining the hunt

Today's outing is a training session for a miqnas, a traditional hunting expedition. The multi-day trips allow the falcons show their skills.

“Within the UAE, we have [designated] hunting grounds in local nature reserves where we can hunt easily. We prepare our vehicles to always be off-road ready, equipped for rugged desert terrain,” Mr Al Marri says. “As for equipment, we need GPS transmitters for the falcons, Magellan navigation in the car, radio frequency trackers.”

The interview is interrupted by a spot of red on his kandura. The falcon, in an attempt to fly off, has scratched the falconer's finger. This is normal, we are told. Sometimes a falconer might even forget a dead pigeon in his pocket and come home with his kandura filled with blood.

“How many times a season we go out with the birds depends on God's blessing and financial circumstances,” Mr Al Marri says. “Once a season is guaranteed, God willing, while a second time depends. It could be at the beginning of the season – around this time or a bit earlier – and another in January or mid-January.”

Mr Al Marri's eyes light up when he speaks of his hunting trips. For him, they go beyond catching the odd houbara. The real essence of the outing is connection.

“The gathering of brothers, family, and friends – that is what hunting trips are truly about. Hunting itself is fun, and if you catch prey, you feel proud, joyful, and excited,” he says.

He has many fond stories and he enjoys the camaraderie – cooking together and sharing small moments.

“Especially the funny situations, like when you release your falcon after a houbara or specific prey and your falcon misses it, then your friend releases their bird and catches it,” he says. “At that point, they spend the whole trip teasing you and having a laugh at your expense.”

Show caption: The falcons are trained using lures made of houbara feathers…

In this exercise, the birds are set up on their stands, known as a wakr, in the hadhira – a gathering circle in the sand. The falconers – one with the bird on their arm and the other with a falcon lure, a tilwah, which is made of houbara feathers to mimic their prey – stand a distance apart.

The bird is held on the left hand because the right hand is for shaking others' hands, we are told.

Show caption: The falconer whips the lure away just before the bird can re…

The falcon is released after the barka, its hood, is removed and the bird's legs are untied. The lure is swung around in circles and the falcon soars and dives towards the “prey”, with the falconer whipping the lure away just before the bird can reach it. It is a dance between the two of them, with the falcon's speed and power on full display until it finally attacks the lure.

Show caption: Each bird hunts a specific type of prey. Victor Besa / The N…

Rich heritage

For Omar Humaid Al Hameli, a specialist in animal conservation at the environment agency, the first order of business is to remove his shoes. He tells us that if we do not, we will not experience the desert properly.

“Falconry is mentioned in the Quran before 1,400 years, so this is very deep in the Arabian roots,” he tells The National.

“In the old days, people used to catch the falcon in the beginning of the season and tame it to help the Bedouin people to catch the preys in the desert. At the end of the season, the tamer will release the falcon to help the falcon continue their migratory way.

“Nowadays, there are air-conditioned places, and they keep the falcon during the hot season until the next season.”

Dates for the season depend on weather patterns, such as rain, and on migratory birds.

Show caption: The UAE has designated hunting grounds in local nature reser…

Falconry licences are issued through the Tamm app, which permits Emirati falconers to hunt only captive-bred houbaras during the season. There are restrictions on locations, with open areas at least 2km from roads permitted.

“Last year, falconers' demand for permits was very high, and we issued 1,525 falcon hunting permits. This year, from the start of the season, we have issued 823 permits,” Mr Al Hameli says. “We expect this year's numbers to exceed last year's, given that the new generation has a genuine passion for this hobby.”

There is no concern about overhunting, he says. This is despite the species being listed as “vulnerable” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

“There is no such thing as illegal overhunting because the permitted prey or houbara are captive-bred. Furthermore, the agency has patrols deployed across all locations where hunting takes place, allowing us to maintain sustainability while preserving our heritage at the same time,” Mr Al Hameli said.

Modernising tradition

Saeed Suhail Al Muharrami, who calls Remah home, comes from a falconry family. He grew up around falcons and continues the legacy, practising for more than 20 years in the UAE and in other countries such as Mauritania.

“We inherited this hobby from our fathers. Ever since we came into this world, this hobby has been present. It's a beautiful hobby that you naturally fall in love with,” Mr Al Muharrami tells The National.

For this outing, he has brought his Hurr Wahsh – a wild-caught Saqer falcon known for its beauty and hunting prowess.

“From the start of the trip to its end, it's pure enjoyment. We explore other countries and new locations to hunt. It's a wonderful journey. We take it as a combined trip of travel and hunting,” he says.

Show caption: Falconer Ammar bin Humaid Al Marri says the hunting trips ar…

Mr Al Marri also takes his birds on trips to other countries, which require preparation, including falcon passports. The birds ride in the plane cabin with the falconers.

“Every country you go to has specific conditions or restrictions regarding which prey you can hunt, which are prohibited, or setting quotas for certain game,” he says.

Mr Al Muharrami says falconry has become much easier thanks to technology, from air conditioning keeping the birds cool to licences being available quickly through a mobile phone.

“There's a big difference. Nowadays, science has advanced, tracking devices exist, facilities and ease of access have improved,” he says. “Every year is better than the last. Any minor issues that occurred previously get resolved for the new season.”

The value of the falcon goes beyond prestige or monetary prices, even though prized birds can fetch upwards of Dh1 million.

“There's a famous proverb: He who doesn't know the falcon, roasts it,” he says.