15/20

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 12, 2024

15/20

Kindred

Italian$$

Easy to miss, easier to fall in love with.

Italian restaurants are a dime a dozen, but Kindred – hidden in plain sight on Cleveland Street – colours outside the lines. Service is affable and deliciously enabling (“yes, two pastas is a wise decision”), and the timber-terrific dining rooms are as welcoming as a family home.

Order the excellent house-made sourdough: it’s ideal for sopping up the Parmigiano-Reggiano custard sitting under Jerusalem artichoke, or the brown butter accompanying carrot triangoli – pretty pasta bundles of carrot puree and goat’s cheese, so close to perfect they’ll never leave the menu.

Produce pickled and preserved on site weaves its way into the menu, including shiitake mushrooms that bring spark to delicate mushroom agnolotti. Gnocchi, fluffy and generously seasoned with parmesan, is the perfect vehicle for roast duck ragu sweetened with pickled prunes.

There are plenty of vegetarian options (including a dedicated vegetarian tasting menu), and if you need an excuse to stay longer, the far-reaching wine list, mostly under $100, will do the trick. Love homestyle Italian heroes? Here’s your kindred spirit.

Must order: Carrot triangoli.

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Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Last visited: April 2026

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Source: The Age

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
Added to Allnira