Dubai Fashion Week: fashion as protest with Nafsika Skourti

Dubai Fashion Week opened its spring/summer 2027 season with a reminder that the region’s fashion ambitions extend well beyond the runway, with shows and presentations by designers from far and wide, underlining the importance of the Middle Eastern market within fashion.

Nafsika Skourti

The highlight of day two was undoubtedly the Dubai Fashion Week debut of Palestinian-Greek label Nafsika Skourti, which closed the day with a runway show called Sisters by Choice. The brand was started by sisters Nafsika, the creative director, and Stephanie Skourti, the business lead.

"I was thinking that there is no official way to celebrate your friends ... and the energy really matched having a happy protest," Nafsika explained backstage.

"So, we have slogans saying things like No Wrong Turns, and Sisters by Choice, and all these affirming statements that I really connected with."

Show caption: The Nafsika Skourti show at Dubai Fashion Week was filled wi…

Returning to the runways after a nine-year hiatus, the collection was relaxed and built around daytime silhouettes in light, easy-to-wear fabrics. It was, she said, an exploration of "daywear, more activewear, and really leaning into the busy women we are."

Stephanie explained the shift away from occasion-wear. "Anyone who has been following the brand will notice that we used to do high and low before, and now it’s a lot more intentional, while at the same time, staying true to our brand codes, like corsetry and detailing," she said.

This was seen as sleeves and skirts trimmed with ribbons and open back tops made from woven beading, and mixed with roomy floral skirts, and sporty zip through tops.

The result was lightweight pieces, cut for movement, that placed the demands of women's lives front and centre. Amid endless shows of beautiful, yet restrictive evening wear, this felt revolutionary.

"Where we are from is something we are always thinking about and exploring. We feel very Arab. We grew up in the Middle East,” Stephanie said.

Yousef Al Jasmi

The runway programme of the week opened with Kuwait’s Yousef Al Jasmi, a designer well-versed in dressing for the spotlight. Having created looks for Lady Gaga, he understands the appeal of theatrical excess, and this collection delivered it in abundance.

Crystal-encrusted dresses skimmed the body, long strands of crystals cascaded from shoulder to floor, and sculpted bodices were paired with sheer, close-fitting skirts. Moving from barely-there nude to dramatic black, the collection was designed to catch the light from every angle.

Sara Pedram

Show caption: Inspired by Persian mythology, Sara Pedram's Simurgh collect…

Next came self-taught designer Sara Pedram, whose collection, Simurgh, drew inspiration from The Conference of the Birds, the 12th-century epic poem by Attar of Nishapur. Exploring transformation, spirituality and Persian cultural heritage, Pedram translated the story into a series of sculptural silhouettes.

A ballerina opened the show, followed by sheer creations with wing-like extensions at the shoulders. A richly embellished burnt-amber column gown gave way to a shimmering cascade of swaying paillettes, while a Prussian-blue velvet gown featured a Swarovski-crystal Tree of Life traced across its train, symbolising growth and renewal.

Most arresting was a voluminous, full-skirted creation in rough hessian, hand-painted with a scene inspired by Persian poet Hafez, whose work, Pedram explained, was “close to my heart”.

“Simurgh is a legendary bird that represents rebirth, transformation and rising again,” Pedram said backstage. “This collection is very personal to me, especially this year. Fashion is more than a beautiful dress; I love to explain the story behind each piece.”

Pallavi Puri

Show caption: Traditional Indian beadwork and equestrian motifs featured i…

Indian designer Pallavi Puri followed with Beyond Borders, a collection exploring cultural exchange through a wardrobe designed for women across the region.

Drawing inspiration from family and friends, their tastes and the way they dress, Puri reworked traditional Indian beadwork for a contemporary audience, citing Emirati, Asian and Moroccan women among her most inspirational clientele.

Horses were another recurring motif, reflecting both the designer’s long-standing fascination with the animals and Dubai’s enduring equestrian culture.

Indian model Lisa Haydon opened the show, while Lebanese actress Cyrine Abdel Nour closed it wearing an embellished bridal look.

“Did you realise one is from India and one is Arab?” Puri said, highlighting the collection’s cross-cultural message. “My show is Beyond Borders, so it is about mixing and coming together.”

It was Haydon's first appearance for Puri and a return to opening a runway show after a lengthy break.

“When you open a show, you set the tone, so I was extra nervous,” she admitted. “This is [Puri’s] debut show [at Dubai Fashion Week], so it was quite a special moment to be part of. I have walked in Dubai Fashion Week before, but today was a lot of firsts.”

Kresha Bajaj

Show caption: Sculptural silhouettes, elaborate embellishments and strikin…

Closing the evening was Kresha Bajaj, who returned with a collection showcasing the designer’s signature beadwork.

Applied to daywear, it trailed across delicate crocheted tops, framed the necklines of street-style tank tops and formed striking zebra-skin patterns.

As the collection moved into evening wear, the embellishment became increasingly elaborate, forming latticework across torsos, looping around hips and swaying across legs with every step. It was glamour with an edge.

The Showroom

Before the first models took their places on Thursday, a showroom in Dubai Design District previewed emerging talent from around the world and introduced several designers to the UAE market.

Among them was Bahrain’s Touchless, whose 3D-printed handbags have already attracted the attention of British Vogue, Selfridges, Level Shoes and Fashion Trust Arabia, as well as making an appearance in the Bridgerton universe.

Show caption: Bahraini label Touchless showcased its innovative 3D-printed…

Egyptian jeweller-turned-eyewear designer Amr Saad brought a precious touch with bespoke gold and silver frames finished with jewellery-like detailing along the arms and bridge.

Tunisian footwear label Balga drew on traditional metalworking techniques for its sculptural heels. Leather mules featured hand-hammered metalwork, including a tapered heel etched with graphic lines reminiscent of baklava.

Kuwaiti designer Kochylia, whose name means seashells in Greek, offered a considered take on wardrobe classics, from reworked trench coats to tuxedo jackets finished with handmade porcelain buttons fashioned from Kuwaiti mud.