A relative newcomer, ‘hakusai’ cabbage is now entering peak freshness

Hakusai, also known as napa or Chinese cabbage, is available year-round, but its peak season is late fall to winter when frost makes the leaves especially tender and sweet. It’s a must-have vegetable in hot pots, soups and stir-fries.

Hakusai actually has a surprisingly short history in Japan, only being introduced in the late 19th century around the time of the First Sino-Japanese War of 1894-95. It is said that Japanese troops on campaign ate the leafy vegetable and brought back plants and seeds with them to their villages.

However, the vegetables were pollinated in mainland China by bees and butterflies that did not exist in Japan, so the plants brought into Japan never propagated. This meant that they had to continue to be imported at high costs.

It wasn’t until the 1930s that Kichibei Numakura, a scientist from Miyagi Prefecture, was able to breed a stable species of hakusai that could be reliably pollinated by native Japanese insects. Even today, Numakura is remembered as the father of Japanese hakusai.

The recipe is for a refreshing pickled mix based on hakusai. Shio-kombu (salted shredded kombu) adds an umami boost while chili peppers add spice. It is far quicker to make than kimchi — and vegan to boot.

Use this as a side dish for a traditional Japanese meal.

This dish works best as a side for a traditional Japanese meal. | MAKIKO ITOH

Serves 3-4

Prep time: 30 minutes

Pickling time: Several hours or overnight

Ingredients:

• 400 grams hakusai

• 5 grams salt

• 2 grams shio-kombu

• 2 red chili peppers

• Toasted sesame seeds

Directions:

1. Cut the root ends off the hakusai, separate the leaves and wash well. Pat completely dry very, then slice into 4-centimeter-long pieces. Sprinkle each piece on both sides with salt.

2. Cut the shio-kombu into 3-centimeter pieces. Remove the seeds from the chili peppers and slice into small pieces with kitchen scissors.

3. Layer the salted cabbage, shio-kombu and chili peppers in a ziplock plastic bag. Squeeze the air from the bag and seal it up. Put the bag on a baking sheet or a plate and weigh it down with another sheet or plate. Place another weight on top (a few books or a couple of cans of food do the trick).

4. Several hours later (or overnight, if you have the time), take the contents out of the bag and drain any extra moisture. Arrange in a bowl, sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.