48 hours in Rabat: History and culture meet modernity in Morocco's capital

Romantic Casablanca, bustling Marrakesh and alternative Tangier tend to overshadow Morocco's capital when it comes to tourism. The greater Rabat area had one-10th of Marrakesh's hotel stays in 2025.

Why visitors skip over this city is beyond me. Far from just an administrative capital, it is a city where an ancient past blends with a vision for a prosperous future.

It is a city full of surprises, where ancient traditions have a dialogue with modernity. Locals are justifiably proud of how clean and green the city is.

Here is how you can make the most of a two-day stay in Morocco's charming capital.

Day 1

9am: Breakfast at Moojood

Kick your day off at a restaurant that prides itself on its Moroccan street food and use of local, seasonal ingredients. It has locations next to the Rabat Agdal Train station, perfect if you arrive by rail, or next to Hassan Tower, which was ideal for our itinerary. Try a feast of Moroccan elements such as bread, eggs, honey and cheese.

Moojood is open daily from Monday to Sunday between 8am and 9pm

10:30am: Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V

Show caption: The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is a prominent historical and ar…

A five-minute walk away, I started my exploration of Rabat by visiting Hassan Tower, arguably the most famous landmark in the city. Constructed in the 12th century, the unfinished minaret is an architectural marvel standing at 44 metres tall.

Next door is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the much-loved father of Moroccan independence. I was mesmerised by the intricate zellij mosaic tilework and the grandeur of the gold ceiling.

Show caption: A Royal Moroccan Guard in front of the Mausoleum of Mohammed…

The Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower are open daily from 8am to 6pm. Entry is free

12pm: Chellah Castle

From here, drive around 10 minutes to Chellah Castle, where you will travel further back in time to the Phoenician period.

I felt like I was in another time period as I wandered through the ruins of the site, seeing the different eras from a Roman forum to the remains of a Marinid madrassa. The layers of history awoke the archaeology enthusiast in me.

Chellah Archaeological Site is open from Tuesday to Sunday between 8:30am and 6pm. Entrance is 70 Moroccan dirhams (Dh26)

1pm: Lunch overlooking the Bou Regreg River at Ciconia

Show caption: A beef couscous tagine at Ciconia restaurant. Alexander Chri…

After a morning of sightseeing, Ciconia came highly recommended for lunch. Luckily for me, it was Friday, the day Moroccans traditionally gather and eat couscous. The laid-back restaurant is perched on a patio inside Chellah, with stunning views over the river and the green hills. Storks, a symbol of the city, perched on their nests just metres away.

The beef couscous tagine hit the spot. The vegetables were fresh and the meat was tender. The lemon sorbet was the perfect dessert to cap off the meal.

Ciconia is open daily from Monday to Sunday between 9.30am and 9pm

3pm: Get lost in the Kasbah of the Udayahs

Show caption: Tourists visit the Kasbah of the Udayas. Alexander Christou …

Udayah is an old fortress and picturesque spot to meander through. I stopped for some mint tea at the popular Cafe des Oudayas, enjoying Moroccan pastries with a view of the ocean. It reminded me a bit of the narrow whitewashed alleyways and painted doors of islands back home in Greece.

Inside the Kasbah of the Udayahs are the Andalusian Gardens, which feel like a calm oasis of greenery.

Kasbah of the Udayahs is open daily from Monday to Sunday between 8am and 6pm

5pm: Wander though the alleys of the Medina for some shopping

Show caption: A cat in the Medina. Alexander Christou / The National

Just across the street, I entered the Medina, where a fresh pomegranate juice stall caught my eye. I bought one for 10 Moroccan dirhams (Dh4) and continued on my way, through the labyrinthine streets past shops selling everything from hammam soap to fresh, plump olives.

I found the shopping experience less hectic than expected, with sellers more eager to speak about the latest football match than pressure me into a sale. The markets stay alive even after the sun sets, and grabbing a pastry from one of the vendors and people-watching at Bab El Had Square is a terrific night-time activity.

The Medina is open daily from Monday to Sunday between 9am and 7pm

7pm: Dinner at Dar Zaki

Show caption: A night walk down the Corniche with a view of the Kasbah of …

For dinner, enjoy a meal at Dar Zaki, where tagine and pastillas are on the menu. This is a popular spot for a traditional, cosy meal in the heart of the Medina. The ambience is the perfect setting for Moroccan fare, with local paintings decorating the colourful walls.

If you are up for a post-dinner walk, the Bou Regreg Corniche has stunning views of the lit-up city, and a lively night-time vibe. You will find youngsters playing instruments and singing, friends hanging out and kids playing.

Dar Zaki is open from Monday to Friday between 7pm and 10pm

Day 2

9am: Breakfast at Cafe Carrion MMVI

I start my second day off with a quick bite and a tea at Cafe Carrion, conveniently located inside the Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. We are now in the heart of Ville Nouvelle, where Art Deco architecture sets the tone for our next stop.

Cafe Carrion MMVI is open from Wednesday to Monday between 8am and 7pm

10am: Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

After breakfast, make some time to take in the Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art.

This striking museum hosts art from Morocco's most prominent contemporary artists. I spent hours browsing the collection and admiring pieces from vibrant canvasses to unique sculptures. The extensive collection of works by Moroccan artists is a highlight.

Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMVI) is open from Wednesday to Monday between 10am and 6pm. Entrance is 60 Moroccan dirhams (Dh22.5)

12pm: Wander around the Ville Nouvelle and St Peter's Cathedral

The 1900s-era French area of town is walkable, with interesting architecture, such as St Peter's Cathedral, and a tram running through the streets. The cobblestones and the tall palm trees add character to the neighbourhood, as do the cats in the streets.

1pm: Pick up a new favourite book at The English Bookshop

Mohammed Belhaj has run The English Bookshop since 1985. I was near it when it started to rain, so I ducked in until it passed. As a book lover, I felt at home and bought a novel he recommended, and some postcards of the shop.

The English Bookshop is open from Monday to Friday between 9am and 12.30pm and between 3pm and 6pm, and on Saturday between 9am and 12:30pm

1:30pm: Grab lunch at Chez Ouazzani

Pop into any of the plethora of restaurants around the area, or head straight to Chez Ouazzani, a Moroccan staple which has been around for 75 years. This establishment comes recommended by locals and is sure to please. Known for its lamb brochettes (qotban) and comfort foods like rfissa, a dish with chicken, lentils and msemen (Moroccan flatbread), Moroccan hospitality can be felt from the moment you step inside.

Chez Ouazzani is open daily between 10am and 11pm

3pm: Botanical Gardens

Rabat is renowned for its parks and green spaces, and the botanical gardens do not disappoint. The beautifully landscaped area is free to enter, and makes for a lovely post-lunch stroll.

Jardin d'Essais Botaniques is open from Tuesday to Sunday between 9am and 6pm

5pm: Catch sweeping views of Rabat from the Mohammed VI Tower Observatory

The modern Mohammed VI Tower was our base for the evening. Heading up to the 55th floor rewards visitors with stunning views of the city. With telescopes and objects showcasing Arab astronomical inventions, the observatory is a breathtaking experience.

The Mohammed VI Tower Observatory is open daily between 10am and 9pm. Entrance is 250 Moroccan dirhams (Dh94)

6:30pm: Unwind at a Moroccan hammam at the Waldorf Astoria Spa

After two full days of exploring, it is time to treat yourself and experience a quintessential Moroccan ritual. Hammam, or a Moroccan bath, is embedded in the weekly routine of many Moroccans. The Waldorf Astoria Spa provides a private and luxurious experience with stunning marble facilities.

A 60-minute hammam treatment costs 1,500 Moroccan dirhams (Dh564)

9pm: Dinner at Brasserie Magnolia

Brasserie Magnolia's menu spans from Morocco to the Levant, with the fresh fish and the shrimp bastillas standing out as highlights. Live music, friendly service and a cosy but upscale ambience made this the perfect finale to my time in a city I can't wait to return to.

Where to Stay

I stayed at the Waldorf Astoria Rabat Sale. Located on floors 29 to 46 of the new Mohammed VI Tower, Morocco's tallest building, the guest experience is second to none.

You can enjoy sweeping views of Rabat, Sale and the Atlantic Ocean from the restaurants and hotel rooms, which incorporate Moroccan designs and art throughout.

If you prefer a budget option, Dar El Yacout is a simple and cosy property nestled within the Medina with a friendly owner. A delicious Moroccan breakfast is included.