Whiteheads: Why you shouldn't pop them and what actually works to get rid of them

Style & Beauty

Dermatologists explain how salicylic acid and retinoids help get rid of whiteheads, and why squeezing them can cause inflammation, pigmentation and scarring.

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03 Nov 2026 07:14AM

Few things are quite as tempting – or as frustrating – as a whitehead that refuses to budge. You know the ones – those tiny, white or flesh-coloured bumps that seem to appear overnight, leaving your complexion looking and feeling less than smooth.

And if you've ever tried to conceal them with foundation, you'll know that full-coverage formula can disguise discolouration, but there's little it can do to hide uneven skin texture.

The instinct, of course, is to squeeze them out. But before you reach for the bathroom mirror, here's what dermatologists want you to know: Whiteheads aren't quite the same as blackheads, and treating them like an ordinary pimple could leave you with a bigger skin problem.

According to Dr Stephanie Ho, a consultant dermatologist and skin specialist, whiteheads form when excess oil and dead skin cells clog a hair follicle, while a thin layer of skin continues to cover its opening.

Blackheads, on the other hand, develop when the follicle remains open. The material inside is exposed to air, resulting in the characteristic dark appearance.

The distinction matters because, unlike an open blackhead, a whitehead has no obvious opening through which its contents can be easily removed.

The good news? Whiteheads are treatable, and keeping them under control doesn't necessarily require an elaborate skincare routine. The trick lies in understanding what causes them, choosing the right active ingredients and, perhaps most importantly, knowing when to leave your skin alone.

WHAT CAUSES WHITEHEADS?

Whiteheads, medically known as closed comedones, are a type of acne that typically appears as small, non-inflamed bumps beneath the skin's surface.

They develop when excess sebum combines with dead skin cells to clog a hair follicle. Unlike inflamed pimples, which can appear red or swollen, whiteheads generally sit quietly beneath the skin.

“Increased sebum production, often influenced by hormones such as androgens, together with abnormal shedding of skin cells within the follicle, are key factors in the formation of whiteheads,” said Dr Ho.

While whiteheads can appear almost anywhere on the body, Dr Kong Yan Ling, a Ministry of Health-accredited consultant dermatologist, said they tend to be most common along the T-zone – the forehead, nose and chin – where oil production is typically higher.

They're not exclusive to the face, either. The neck, chest and back are also common areas for breakouts.

WHO IS MORE PRONE TO WHITEHEADS?

If whiteheads seem to make a regular appearance despite your best skincare efforts, your genes may have something to do with it.

According to Dr Kong, people with a family history of acne are more likely to develop whiteheads. Those with naturally oily or acne-prone skin may also find themselves dealing with these stubborn bumps more frequently.

Hormones are another major player.

Fluctuations during puberty and the menstrual cycle, as well as hormonal conditions such as polyendocrine metabolic ovarian syndrome (PMOS), formerly known as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), can influence sebum production and contribute to clogged pores, explained Dr Ho.

But it's not all down to biology. Your everyday habits – and even your beauty routine – could be contributing to the problem.

“Repeated friction and occlusion from helmets, headbands or chin straps can trigger acne in the areas of contact,” said Dr Ho.

SHOULD YOU POP WHITEHEADS?

The short answer? Don't.

As satisfying as it might seem to squeeze out a whitehead, dermatologists caution that doing so can cause more trouble than the original blemish.

“Because the pore is closed, forcing out the contents can damage the surrounding skin, increase inflammation and lead to pigmentation or scarring,” said Dr Ho.

Unlike a blackhead, which has an open follicular opening, a whitehead is covered by skin. Applying pressure with your fingers or fingernails can traumatise the surrounding tissue.

And the consequences can linger long after the original bump has disappeared.

“A small whitehead may not seem like much, but the dark marks left behind from picking at it can sometimes take months to fade,” said Dr Kong.

So, what about professional extractions?

These can be an option for persistent whiteheads. Performed by a trained clinician, the procedure involves creating a tiny opening to carefully remove the trapped material.

However, both dermatologists emphasised that extractions are a short-term fix. While they can remove existing blockages, they do little to prevent new ones from forming.

You'll need the right skincare ingredients to keep whiteheads at bay.

HOW DO YOU GET RID OF WHITEHEADS AND PREVENT THEM?

When it comes to treating whiteheads, more skincare isn't necessarily better skincare.

In fact, Dr Kong recommends keeping things simple. Start with a gentle facial cleanser twice daily, followed by a lightweight moisturiser and sunscreen during the day. Where possible, choose products labelled non-comedogenic, meaning they're formulated to be less likely to clog pores.

Once the basics are in place, consider introducing a targeted treatment to address the buildup of oil and dead skin cells.

Salicylic acid: The pore-clearing exfoliant

If whiteheads are your main concern, salicylic acid is one ingredient worth knowing.

A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, allowing it to work within oily follicles and help loosen the buildup of dead skin cells that contributes to clogged pores.

It's commonly found in cleansers, toners and leave-on exfoliating treatments, making it relatively easy to incorporate into an existing routine.

But resist the temptation to exfoliate more aggressively in the hope of achieving faster results.

Over-exfoliating or using harsh facial scrubs can irritate the skin, potentially making breakouts and the resulting marks more difficult to manage, cautioned Dr Kong.

A better approach is to introduce one exfoliating product gradually, adjusting the frequency according to how your skin responds.

Retinoids: The long-term solution for stubborn whiteheads

For recurring whiteheads, topical retinoids are among the most established treatments.

Dr Ho recommends considering ingredients such as tretinoin, adapalene and trifarotene, which help regulate skin-cell turnover, prevent clogged follicles and reduce the formation of new comedones.

Unlike an exfoliant that primarily helps remove accumulated dead skin cells, a retinoid works by normalising the way cells develop and shed within the follicle. This makes it particularly useful for managing whiteheads over the longer term.

The catch? Retinoids require some patience – and a sensible introduction.

They can cause dryness, peeling and irritation, particularly during the first few weeks. Dr Ho therefore recommends introducing them gradually and using a moisturiser to improve skin tolerance.

It's also important not to pile on multiple potent actives at once. Combining a retinoid with frequent acid exfoliation, for example, may overwhelm the skin and compromise its protective barrier.

And while retinoids can be highly effective, they aren't suitable for everyone. Topical retinoids should be avoided during pregnancy or when planning a pregnancy, unless otherwise advised by a qualified healthcare professional.

How long before you see results?

Don't expect your whiteheads to disappear overnight.

Both dermatologists agree that visible improvements generally take around six to 12 weeks, depending on the treatment and individual skin condition.

Consistency matters far more than constantly switching products. Give your chosen treatment sufficient time to work before deciding that it isn't effective.

CAN SKINCARE AND MAKEUP MAKE IT WORSE?

Having whiteheads doesn't mean you need to give up makeup, rich moisturisers or sunscreen altogether.

What matters is choosing formulas that work with your skin rather than against it.

“People who are prone to whiteheads should be cautious with very heavy or occlusive skincare, sunscreen and makeup, particularly if they notice that a product consistently worsens their acne,” said Dr Ho.

For makeup wearers, Dr Kong suggests opting for lighter formulas labelled non-comedogenic where possible.

And don't underestimate the importance of removing makeup thoroughly at the end of the day.

For those who regularly wear long-wearing makeup or water-resistant sunscreen, Dr Kong recommends double-cleansing to ensure products are properly removed.

“You can start with a makeup remover or cleansing oil, followed by a gentle facial cleanser, to make sure everything is properly removed,” she said.

The key is to cleanse thoroughly without stripping the skin. Double-cleansing can be helpful when removing stubborn products, but it isn't essential for everyone, particularly if a single gentle cleanser already does the job.

WHEN SHOULD YOU SEE A DERMATOLOGIST?

If you've been using appropriate over-the-counter treatments consistently for weeks with little improvement, or if the bumps are becoming increasingly widespread, it may be time to seek professional advice.

Depending on the severity and underlying causes, Dr Ho said treatment options may include professional extractions, chemical peels, prescription topical treatments or oral medication.

And if there's one piece of advice worth taking away, it's this: Resist the urge to overcomplicate your routine.

“Don't overcomplicate things. It's better to start with a simple routine, introduce one treatment at a time, and give it a chance to work,” said Dr Kong.

Sometimes, the most effective beauty routine isn't the one with the most steps – it's the one you can stick to.

Source: CNA/yy