The Feed: Food historian Ann Marie Duffin’s favourite places for coffee, lunch and dinner with a difference

As founder of Bia Duit, Duffin has a few favourite historical culinary traditions too

Thu Nov 12 2026 - 12:00 • 2 MIN READ

When you know all about the history of food, how do you decide where to eat in the present? Irish food historian Ann Marie Duffin, founder of the Bia Duit social media channels, sat down with The Irish Times to discuss her favourite past Irish culinary traditions and the restaurants she most likes to visit.

She took The Irish Times to Brindle Coffee and Wine D7 in Stoneybatter, a coffee shop and wine bar she says is perfect for anybody looking for an alternative to a pub or restaurant, as it is open until later in the evening.

L Mulligan Grocer, also in Stoneybatter, is her choice when friends are visiting as the food, according to Duffin, is reliably delicious and has a wide appeal.

Dak at Bar Anam, near Bolton Street in Dublin 7, serves Korean soul food and this is where Duffin goes when she is looking for a casual bite. She says the “incredible produce and interesting flavours” keep her coming back.

When she is in the mood for something adventurous, Duffin looks to Assassination Custard on Kevin Street, Dublin 8. She credits the tiny spot as being the only place where she has eaten tripe and enjoyed it.

For lunch, Duffin loves the twist that Tír deli in CHQ, Dublin 1, puts on a toastie as it replaces pastrami with venison.

Duffin says that mussels and chips should be considered a traditional Dublin dish because of their history in the city. In the 17th and 18th centuries, shellfish, specifically mussels, were served on the street to workers and at fairs. She recommends Octopussy in Howth, Dublin 13, for those looking to step back in time.

[ Assassination Custard review: This tiny, two-table place in Dublin is truly magnificentOpens in new window ]

When it comes to Christmas traditions, Duffin wishes spiced beef, typically associated with Cork, and Limerick ham were considered canon Irish festive dishes. Spiced beef is a type of cured beef made by marinating cuts of beef in a mixture of salt and spices, while Limerick ham is ham smoked over juniper berries, salted and then boiled in cider. Duffin likes to pick up both in FX Buckley Butchers in Dublin 14 and namechecks The Sandwich Stall in The English Market in Cork city for spiced beef sandwiches.

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