16/20Critics' Pick

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024

16/20Critics' Pick

Yellow

Vegetarian or vegan$$$

Expressive plant-based cooking flavoured by fermentation and fire.

Curls of chargrilled cabbage are concertinaed onto a skewer, lacquered with a savoury glaze of chickpea miso. Alongside is a simple stack of cinnamon-fragrant carrots, a satin-smooth potato mash and a sauce that sits somewhere between ketchup, mustard and A1 steak sauce. It’s a little bit Japanese, a little bit Tuesday-night Aussie barbecue, and it’s very good.

This clever piece of plant-based sorcery is emblematic of chef Sander Nooij’s vegan cooking, and it would convert even the most intractable meat eater. Elsewhere on the three- or six-course tasting menu you might find a medley of Boon Luck Farm cucumbers spiced like a Thai soup, or savoury eggplant layered onto olive-punctuated farro, donburi-style.

Paired with matching wines or non-alcoholic shrubs and kombuchas – fermented in-house – it’s all intriguing, energetic and glistening with technique. Who said vegetables can’t muscle onto centrestage?

Good to know: Check out aperitivo hour on Fridays and Saturdays for cut-price drinks and snacks.

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Last visited: April 2026

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Source: The Sydney Morning Herald

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
Added to Allnira