16/20Critics' Pick

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024

16/20Critics' Pick

Woodcut

Contemporary$$$$

Handsome harbourfront restaurant, harnessing the elements.

The host, polished and courteous, leads you through a small, dark corridor and into the dining room. It is huge. Four open kitchens, dozens of tables, everything bathed in warm, autumnal light. There is polite chatter, harbour views, and front-row seats to culinary theatre.

Watch as chefs harness fire, steam, smoke and ice in their careful treatment of premium Australian produce – using steam kettles to coax delicate flavours from zucchini flowers; grilling skewers of veal tongue over ash until the rippled edges become smoky and crisp, before serving them with a briny caper sauce; and slow-firing rump caps of Shiro Kin wagyu over wood fire until the fat melts through its rich, just-charred flesh.

Each steak comes with a warning of a 40-60 minute wait, but time passes quickly with a couple of Moreton Bay bug rolls and a sommelier to guide you through a well-managed cellar list with international scope.

Good to know: Couples are more likely to be seated at one of the kitchen counters – speak up if you’d prefer a table.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: August 2026

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Source: The Age

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
Added to Allnira