15.5/20

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024

15.5/20

Poly

Contemporary$$$

Intensity on the plate, organics in the glass, charm on the floor.

Approach the wine list like the student of a new hobby – ask the right question, or enough questions, and you’ll end up in love with something. Approach the menu with the knowledge that potentially every dish will be an aggressively tasty, full-on savoury blast, such as a perfectly cubed hash brown with salted egg yolk.

Poly delivers open-flame roast meats with jus that tastes like aged masterstock, and vegetables receive a similar treatment, including molasses-marinated smoked beetroot enriched with soy, and garlic-buttered grilled corn lying on a hunk of mousse-like goat’s cheese.

It’s the heft and richness of an American barbecue session, served with the theatre of open flame and the relaxed charm of a natural wine bar. But what else would you expect from a team led by Ester’s Mat Lindsay and sommelier Julien Dromgool?

Good to know: There’s a heart-pounding American-Australian barbecue lunch service every Friday and Saturday.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: July 2026

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Source: The Age

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
Added to Allnira