14.5/20

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024

14.5/20

Lamshed’s Food + Wine

Contemporary$$

Understated, innovative and distinctly local diner in a prestigious leafy postcode.

It’s often the way in Canberra that the best finds are in the places you’d least expect. A non-descript tiled corridor, sandwiched between an IGA, cafe and sushi spot on a sleepy suburban strip, leads you to this bunker-style space serving arguably some of the capital’s finest.

While the stark white walls, sleek concrete floors, tables lined with bentwood chairs and clattering open kitchen don’t immediately read warmth and comfort, the generosity of the service soon takes over. As do polished, yet approachable, dishes: crisp, puffy gnocco fritto swiped through velvety mortadella mousse is a belter of a snack, followed by bream ceviche, tangy and sweet with orange and passionfruit.

The richness of charred duck skewers is softened with fresh fig and an Earl Grey glaze, while golden-fried snapper splays across creamy risotto hiding nubs of mussels and fennel. The prospect of starting or finishing with a pet nat from local winery Nick O’Leary is right in keeping with the tone, too: casual, yet all class.

Good to know: If you’re more passenger than driver, there’s a “surprise me” set menu.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: May 2026

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Source: The Age

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
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