Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024
14.5/20Gowings
Contemporary$$$
A city-side Italianate grill brimming with brio.
While performers tread the boards at the next-door State Theatre, here the drama comes via caesar salad tossed tableside, the crisp cos leaves generously dressed and topped with croutons, shattery prosciutto and a blizzard of parmigiano. WA octopus tentacle with white bean and macadamia puree steals the show, however, its flavourful char giving way to yielding meat, all lifted with chilli and lemon.
Steak may be the headline act, the grill-striped grain-fed scotch fillet richly flavoured and cooked on point, but rock flathead flanked by clams scattered with corn and diced pancetta is no bit player. Crunchy duck fat-roasted potatoes, meanwhile, make for a crowd-pleasing support act.
Smartly dressed staff crisscross the room – a polished space softened with sculptural pendant lights – wielding menus and a hefty list of New and Old World wines that makes a compelling case for another round in lieu of dessert.
Good to know: The adjoining bar serves mini-cocktails for $10 and $5 snacks from 3pm to 6pm.
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Last visited: April 2026
More:
- Sydney
- Gowings
- Contemporary
- Steakhouse
- Separate bar
- Licensed
- Vegetarian-friendly
- Gluten-free options
- Wheelchair access
- Private dining room
- Family-friendly
- Good for groups
- Accommodation
- Good for a first date
- Great for steak
- Restaurant
- Reviews
- Good Food Guide
From our partners
Source: The Age
At a glance
- Topic
- World
- Country
- 🇦🇺 AU
- Publisher language
- EN
- Added to Allnira