14.5/20

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024

14.5/20

Gaku Robata Grill Omakase

Japanese$$

Big flavours from a small inner-east kitchen.

Even with its small footprint, roughly half of Gaku’s snug Darlinghurst space is kitchen. Chefs bounce between stove, steamer, fryer and the eponymous charcoal grill, while diners sit elbow-to-elbow across the counter, throwing down ponzu-spiked oysters, gleaming sashimi and marinated tuna nigiri crowned with real pickled ginger instead of the hot-pink stuff.

The chawanmushi, a velvet-soft custard perfumed with truffle and crowned with spanner crab, is heartiness incarnate, while blocks of charred beef tongue mingle with shimeji mushrooms in bright, yuzu-spiked dashi. There’s grilled and soy-glazed eel in a lacquered box, sake in a flight of tiny glassware and a colourful parade of precision from a kitchen that speaks fluent umami.

It isn’t showy, but Gaku’s the kind of friendly, satisfying neighbourhood restaurant every neighbourhood wishes it had.

Good to know: Gaku’s lunchtime ramen menu – offered daily – is the stuff of legend.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

Last visited: August 2026

Continue this series

Eastern Suburbs

Up next
Gildas and charcuterie.
  • Review

Gildas

Sydney’s premier pintxos bar, fuelled by snacks, sherry and sophisticated small plates.

Agnolotti del plin.
  • Review

Gran Torino

Classic Italian in classic Neil Perry style in Double Bay.

Previously
Fratelli Paradiso in Potts Point.
  • Review

Fratelli Paradiso

Sophisticated trattoria with excellent pasta and people watching.

See all stories

More:

From our partners

Source: The Age

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
Added to Allnira