Dimmies worth detouring for, and other dining gems in this unassuming inner-city ’burb

Proximity defines much of Ascot Vale’s personality. The inner north-western suburb is only six kilometres from the city, sandwiched between the better-known Moonee Ponds and Flemington, and fringed by the racecourse, showgrounds and Maribyrnong River. But it’s begun to show burgeoning potential as a dining destination.

Union Road has long been its central, cafe-studded shopping strip, where locally loved grocer The Happy Apple opened its first location in 2007, before expanding through the west. But nearly two decades on, the street and its surrounds have seen an influx of new openings that are slowly expanding the depth and breadth of Ascot Vale’s eateries.

There’s fresh energy to soak up on the main drag – and beyond. Here are six of the best places to eat and drink in Ascot Vale right now, from exciting newcomers (Japan-imported ramen, joyous Sri Lankan) to enduring favourites, including a decade-old cafe.

Cafe Ogawa

This steaming-hot addition to Union Road comes direct from Japan. Serial cafe operator Kantaro Okada (279, Hareruya Pantry) has partnered with Japanese ramen master Atsushi Ogawa to bring his brilliance to Melbourne. You’re likely familiar with the Fukuoka-style tonkotsu ramen, but less ubiquitous here is the Yokohama-style iekei, with a pork and shoyu (soy sauce) broth layered with chicken oil. You’ll need your phone for two reasons: to join the virtual queue (it’s walk-in only), and to stick it to the magnetic ceiling above the bar, designed so you can perfectly photograph your bowl of ramen.

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217 Union Road, Ascot Vale, instagram.com/cafeogawa

Hop & Spice

From the second you walk in to the second you walk out, infectious smiles are plastered on the staff’s faces at Sri Lankan eatery Hop & Spice – even with no free seats on a weeknight. Crack a can of coconut toddy, a boozy drink made of fermented coconut-flower sap, and prepare to feast. The bestselling lamb shank biryani is on every second table, the bones stripped clean of their fall-apart meat. For a taste of the greatest hits, the street kulla, a platter for two, is great value: $49.90 buys you hoppers three ways (plain, string, egg); chicken curry; kottu (chopped roti) with veg; and coconut sambol.

230 Union Road, Ascot Vale, hopandspice.com.au

Gordon St Bakery

Recently declared a Melbourne institution by Good Food’s 100 Essential Cafes & Bakeries guide, the Footscray-born Gordon St is getting even more attention at its second shopfront. Much is due to its exceptional almond croissant, distinguished by a rum-spiked frangipane and a ridiculously reasonable price tag: only $6.50. With no coffee machine and little in the way of seating, the Union Road spot is geared for grab and go, with sourdough and viennoiserie delivered from the Footscray HQ a few times a day. Bag an olive fougasse and a cheese twist and be on your way.

175 Union Road, Ascot Vale, gordonstbakery.com

Komur

The adana kebab is a smokeshow at no-frills Turkish barbeque joint Komur. Minced and spiced lamb is fired on a sword-like skewer and comes traditionally – on a plate or wrap – but also in cheeseburger form for an on-trend point of difference. A revolving door of locals picks up takeaway beneath the “welcome home” sign, but there’s space to settle in for fresh-off-the-grill delights. Swipe charred bread through cacik, the garlicky yoghurt and cucumber dip; go fingers-first with lamb cutlets and chicken wingettes; and invite your vego mates along – flavour-packed falafel and salads are no afterthought.

446 Mt Alexander Road, Ascot Vale, komur.com.au

Ascot Vale Hotel

At the suburb’s go-to pub, a trio of dimmies can do you for dinner. Among the biggest in town, these fist-sized exemplars are doused in chicken salt and best slathered with spicy house-made chilli jam. From the same pub family as Seddon’s Mona Castle and the Spotswood Hotel, the Ascot Vale has something for everyone. The sports-mad front bar pours “the coldest pots in Melbourne”, while it’s less rowdy, more refined in the golden-lit dining room, where schnitties come with Cafe de Paris butter. The pub was built 150 years ago, but still it commands its corner on a busy intersection of the north-west.

447 Mt Alexander Road, Ascot Vale, ascotvalehotel.com.au

No. 19

Over the past decade, throngs of brunch-loving locals have continued to bring maximum vibes to this minimalistic cafe – all polished concrete and blonde timber. The owners of Essendon cafe St Rose added No. 19 to their stable in 2016, and it’s since become one of Ascot Vale’s neighbourhood gems, on any given morning filled with pram-wielding parents catching up over coffee. Classic cafe dishes are done deftly, from acai bowls to hash-brown-stacked brekkie muffins. But there are some more creative flourishes – perhaps tiramisu-inspired French toast, or fluffy pancakes crowned with fairy floss.

214 Union Road, Ascot Vale, no19.com.au