14/20Critics' Pick

Updated October 26, 2026,first published November 11, 2024

14/20Critics' Pick

Bella Brutta

Pizza$$

High-energy neighbourhood fixture balancing rich, saucy slices with vibrant, sharp starters.

There’s a comforting magic to the brilliant, intentional chaos here. The central wood-fired oven is the space’s theatrical anchor, churning out the signature long-fermented bases perfected by founder Luke Powell and his team. Despite stepping away from the business in 2025, Powell’s touch carries on in the end product – beautiful, blistered char without a hint of bitterness.

The clam pizza remains a left-field triumph, loaded with surf clams, pecorino, and a fiery kick of fermented chilli over a velvety white sauce. And mushroom pizza finished with brown-butter vinaigrette is deeply savoury. Rich? Sure, but it’s balanced by fresh, punchy counterpoints such as thick-cut kingfish crudo with a tangy citrus emulsion and green tomato salsa. A crisp vanilla cannolo provides a textbook textural finish.

Beyond the food, the effortlessly charming floor team navigates the high-tempo room with ease. Thumb through the tight list of Italian naturals, or opt for a truly local craft beer.

Good to know: There’s a takeaway window around the corner serving up the hits.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

Last visited: May 2026

More:

From our partners

Source: The Sydney Morning Herald

At a glance

Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
Added to Allnira