A couple of years ago, the tiny kitchen perched outside the Ovolo Canberra made waves as Fekerte’s, a canteen specialising in comforting Ethiopian fare. Fekerte’s may be no longer, but the next incarnation of the space – AK’s Diner – has more than taken up the mantle.

Run by Anand Kumar “AK” Ramakrishna, former chef-owner of fusion fine-diner XO, AK’s offers a handful of daily specials served over rice, but the depth of flavour in each disposable bowl is all-but unmatched.

Make a beeline for dishes that draw on both Ramakrishna’s Tamil-Malaysian roots and the flavours of South-East Asia, from slow-cooked chicken prepared to his amma’s recipe to crisp, giving sweet-and-sour fish. Sides might include XO green beans cooked to the point of collapse, while the curry puffs for snacks are a must.

The list of extras, meanwhile, add more delicious dimensions, including roti canai and house-made pickles, plus the occasional black-rice pudding or longan and monkfruit iced tea.

Still, things change quickly: already, spring has seen deep, fiery Chettinad pork neck varuval and cumin-scented Jeera chicken grace the menu.

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This is a lunch-only, weekday-only affair, but the queues keep coming, spurred on by collaborations with name chefs such as Christine Manfield and frequent pop-ups around town. Modern spins on classics? Tick. Old family recipes? Big tick.

Best for: ”Soul food, good tunes and great vibes”, reads the sign. We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Last visited: February 2026

Source: The Age

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Topic
World
Country
🇦🇺 AU
Publisher language
EN
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